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Passing the thread: How jockey silks have helped bridge the gap between generations

Updated: 1 day ago

Inside Becker & Durski Turf Goods, 26-year-old seamstress Bailey Boswell irons black square patches onto baby pink fabric. On the other side of the room, her 76-year-old mentor, seamstress "Miss Sophie" Goff, sews other pieces of fabric together.


Sophia Goff sews squares onto a silk at Becker & Durski Turf Goods on Friday, January 17th, 2025. Photo by Holly Netzley.
Sophia Goff sews squares onto a silk at Becker & Durski Turf Goods on Friday, January 17th, 2025. Photo by Holly Netzley.

The women are, as Boswell says, "working together but working separate," to make a jockey silk, the jerseys that jockeys wear during horse races.


Miss Sophie, affectionately given the nickname by Boswell, has been sewing her whole life. Learning her trade from her mother, Miss Sophie would watch her sew clothes at home and eventually caught on.


From jockey silks to bridal gowns, Miss Sophie has made all kinds of things in her years as a seamstress. With five sewing machines at home, Miss Sophie simply enjoys the act of sewing, sometimes even taking silks home to finish them over the weekend.


"I just enjoy sewing. It doesn't feel like a job, really. It's just something I like to do," Miss Sophie said.



Miss Sophie first began working at Becker & Durski when Mr. Wagner Sr. was the owner. She worked there for 17 years before moving to Germany with her husband. After returning and working odd jobs as a seamstress, Mr. Wagner Jr. found Miss Sophie about six years ago and convinced her to come back to Becker & Durski.


"We always find Miss Sophie. She tries to leave and then we bring her back," Boswell said.


Blinkers hanging in Becker & Durski Turf Goods in Louisville, KY. Photo by Holly Netzley.
Blinkers hanging in Becker & Durski Turf Goods in Louisville, KY. Photo by Holly Netzley.

With over 20 years of experience in the silk-making industry, Miss Sophie has made her fair share of silks, one of which was for a big name in horse racing.


Miss Sophie's favorite silk she made was one worn by Secretariat's jockey. She was surprised when she saw her silk cross the finish line first.




"I did make the ones for Secretariat, but l didn't know they were for Secretariat," she said. "You go by the owner or trainer, and I didn't know him. I didn't know until I saw him finish. I was really excited to see it, especially him winning."


On top of making jockey silks, Miss Sophie has also helped teach Boswell how to make them.


Despite their age difference, Boswell and Miss Sophie have formed a close bond.


Photo by Siler Bargo.
Photo by Siler Bargo.

"I've learned all of my sewing skills in regards to the silks from Miss Sophie," Boswell said. "She's like my grandma teaching me how to do something."


From a young age, Boswell has been "very, very crafty," she said. Although she had experience ranging from crocheting to sublimation, the process of making silks is very different from that of any other type of clothing.


"It's definitely one of those crafts where ... if (Miss Sophie) wouldn't have taught me, I would've had no idea," Boswell said. "There's not really a pattern book. You don't have a 'Here's your written instructions, go do it, so it's definitely one of those things that has to be passed down and taught."


Unlike other sports uniforms, every silk is the same size and made using the same stencils. The stencils used at Becker & Durski are based on sizing that Miss Sophie came up with herself. The silks are made to order due to the specific nature of their design.


Sewing thread used to create Derby Silks at Becker & Durski Turf Goods in Louisville, KY. Photo by Holly Netzley.
Sewing thread used to create Derby Silks at Becker & Durski Turf Goods in Louisville, KY. Photo by Holly Netzley.

Colors and patterns vary based on things like personal preference or racing regulations.


"They're simple designs when you're looking at them but actually doing them, there's really nothing simple to it," Boswell said. "Even though it's very 'same steps over and over' there's nothing simple in regards to a silk."


From simpler designs like solid colors or checkered blocks to more intricate things like restaurant and company logos, Miss Sophie and Boswell have developed a system that allows them to work efficiently while focusing on the aspects of the silk-making process that they enjoy the most.


"We work so well together... she knows that I know that this is correct, and when I hand it to her I know that what she's gonna do is correct. So by the end of it, our piece will come together and then it'll be our piece from doing it separately," Boswell said.


Miss Sophie admitted she does most of the sewing, with a laugh from behind her sewing machine. Boswell agreed with her from her station at the cutting mat.


While Miss Sophie sews, Boswell works on the cutting and designs of the silks.


Since Miss Sophie is technically retired, Boswell has taken over the organizational aspect of silk orders, she said.


Sophia Goff finding thread at Becker & Durski Turf Goods on January 17th, 2025. Photo by Siler Bargo.
Sophia Goff finding thread at Becker & Durski Turf Goods on January 17th, 2025. Photo by Siler Bargo.

"I take the orders because it's easier for me. I do all the pricing and talking to the customers. She's at the point where she just doesn't wanna do that anymore," Boswell said. "She will if she's here by herself and somebody comes in, but I would definitely say that I'm in charge of the organization."


Although Miss Sophie loves to sew, she's gotten to a point where she's not tired of it, but sometimes she just wants to stay home and watch Netflix, she said.


After two decades of working, Miss Sophie would rather spend her time hanging out with her great-grandchildren and her brother. Boswell says she's very family-oriented, which is reflected in the way Miss Sophie does her work.


"I definitely feel like she makes it feel family-ish. She'll do anything for anybody," Boswell said. "She definitely treats this place not like a job. She treats it like it's something that really matters to her and she wants it to be right."


After suddenly losing her grandparents during her senior year of high school, Boswell said she sees Miss Sophie as her grandma.


"I love her. I would jump in front of a car for her. She's just that type of person," Boswell said.


Sewing thread sitting near a sewing machine in Becker & Durski Turf Goods in Louisville, KY. Photo by Holly Netzley.
Sewing thread sitting near a sewing machine in Becker & Durski Turf Goods in Louisville, KY. Photo by Holly Netzley.

Because of their close bond, Boswell has learned a lot about Miss Sophie. While she knows things like the fact Miss Sophie is a night owl, or that she's "hilarious" and isn't afraid to make a sly comment for a laugh, it's her kindness that has stuck out to Boswell the most.


"She just is - so kind. That is my main word about her, like so open-hearted with everybody is just really the best way to describe her," Boswell said.



With the loss of her grandparents being so unexpected, Boswell learned not to take things for granted. Even if it's something as unexpected as a friendship with her 76-year-old coworker.


"It kind of taught me you have to pay attention to what's in front of you. What's in front of you is what's important. Don't worry about the drama, don't worry about this, don't worry about that because once what's in front of you is gone, it's gone," Boswell said. "That's why l'll sit here and talk to Miss Sophie all day long."


Sophia Goff sewing at Becker & Durski Turf Goods on January 17th, 2025. Photo by Siler Bargo.
Sophia Goff sewing at Becker & Durski Turf Goods on January 17th, 2025. Photo by Siler Bargo.

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