Nov 275 min read

Reaching New Heights with Lexington Climbers

Heath Rowland hangs onto the side of the rock wall after reaching the peak of the route on Tuesday, Oct. 8, 2024, at Red River Gorge in Slade, Kentucky. Photo by Matthew Mueller

From the resounding sandstone walls of the Red River Gorge to the countless crags the state offers, Kentucky is a sought-after region where climbing scales new heights and its community is as diverse as the terrain.

Sport climbing, which involves scaling pre-bolted routes with fixed anchors, has gained international recognition, making its official debut in the 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games. It was featured for a second time in the Paris 2024 Games, and climbing fans eagerly anticipate its return for a third time in the Los Angeles 2028 Games. This esteemed global spotlight calls attention to the budding popularity and interest surrounding the sport, bringing additional attention to Kentucky’s climbing scene and its role in the future of climbing at the highest level.

Climbers look up at the rock shelter on Tuesday, Oct. 8, 2024, at Red River Gorge in Slade, Kentucky. Photo by Matthew Mueller

“Climbing is still a relatively new sport, but now that it’s getting older, there’s people of all different ages and backgrounds doing it,” said Jordan Arsenault, a 26-year-old climber. “It’s a cool way to bring people together from a lot of different places.”

Originally from Texas, Arsenault used to plan weekend or even week-long trips just to reach outdoor climbing spots. Now in Lexington, she values the convenience of being so close to the Red River Gorge.

Michael Molony holds onto a crack in the rock on Friday, Oct. 11, 2024, at Red River Gorge in Slade, Kentucky. Photo by Matthew Mueller

“The Red River Gorge is world-class,” Arsenault said. “It is awesome to have the Red all the time, especially coming from a place where that is something I did not have before. I find myself devaluing it because you forget how cool it is since it is right there.”

The Red River Gorge, in eastern Kentucky, has over 1,000 established routes and breathtaking natural beauty, from the abundance of high sandstone cliffs and arches to the waterfalls and natural bridges. The canyon system provides an outdoor playground for climbers of all levels, from beginner-friendly routes to challenging climbs even for seasoned professionals.

“The Red River Gorge is definitely the epicenter of climbing in Kentucky and kind of a sport climbing mecca for the entire world,” said Billy Simek, executive director of the Red River Gorge Climber’s Coalition (RRGCC).

In this role, Simek, 29, implements programming for secure access to rock climbing, educates climbers on outdoor ethics and oversees 1,100 acres of RRGCC-owned property through sustainable development and maintenance practices.

“Our mission as an organization is to protect open public access to rock climbing in the Red River Gorge and then promote conservation on those same lands,” Simek said.

Michael Molony stretches his arm out while on the rock on Friday, Oct. 11, 2024, at Red River Gorge in Slade, Kentucky. Photo by Matthew Mueller

Simek also organizes and executes Rocktoberfest, an annual four-day climbing festival. The event features a variety of activities including sport climbing competitions, expert-led clinics on technique and safety, gear demos and social opportunities such as live music performances, food vendors and sponsor booths.

“I always encourage people to come out to Rocktoberfest even if you have never climbed before,” Simek said. “It is a nice way for everyone in the climbing community to come together and to showcase the Red River Gorge.”

Rocktoberfest happened this year from Oct. 9 - Oct.13. Climber Griffin Appel, who grew up nearby and started climbing at the Gorge in college, was happy to return to one of his favorite climbing spots for the festival.

Curtis Rogers belays Heath Rowland on Tuesday, Oct. 8, 2024, at Red River Gorge in Slade, Kentucky. Photo by Matthew Mueller

“You know, it's just so beautiful, and then being able to do something active and more like interactive with the environment, it's really cool, just chasing really cool rock,” Appel said. “The features are unlike anywhere else, just like beautiful overhanging rock, cool colors of rock. It's one of the most special rock climbing places for me, for sure, especially growing up here. I love it.”

42-year-old Heath Rowland, who sells climbing equipment, said the Gorge is a “hub” for climbers from around the world, not just eastern Kentucky locals like himself and Appel.

“I've climbed every major climbing area in the United States. And you know, Red River Gorge is still the center of the universe,” Rowland said at Rocktoberfest. “On a busy fall weekend, you could walk through the parking lot and see license plates from Canada and every other state out West. And you know, you'll hear people speaking French and speaking Spanish. This is where everybody wants to come.”

Michael Molony, Griffin Appel, and Wyatt Edwards laugh while taking a break on Friday, Oct. 11, 2024, at Red River Gorge in Slade, Kentucky. Photo by Matthew Mueller

Through events like Rocktoberfest, the RRGCC provides an inclusive climbing community while emphasizing the importance of protecting public access to climbing for all, as well as conserving the beauty of a premier natural climbing environment like the Gorge.

“Climbing as a whole, we see a lot more people coming in, and I think it’s a really good thing that people are being exposed to the outdoor form of climbing and that more people are enjoying it,” Simek said.

Venturing outdoors often presents a new set of challenges and opportunities, especially for climbers looking to deepen their connection with the sport.

Cameron Carter climbing on some of the bouldering routes on Saturday, Aug. 24, 2024, at LEF in Lexington, Kentucky. Photo by Matthew Mueller

“Making the transition to outside the walls of the gym was crazy,” Cameron Carter said. “My friend just said ‘Hey, we’re going outdoors,’ and he kind of threw me into it.”

Carter, 25, began his climbing journey when friends introduced him to the rock wall at the Johnson Recreation Center while he was a student at the University of Kentucky. Six years later, Carter has continued to climb passionately, transitioning from his indoor roots to embracing the Red River Gorge as his new home base for outdoor climbing.

“Kentucky is to climbers like Vegas is to gamblers,” Carter said.

Carter described climbing as a full-body workout that combines endurance, flexibility, coordination and cognitive skills, making it both a physically and mentally stimulating exercise.

“It's been really nice to let go of any expectations I've had of myself,” Carter said. “I can still aspire to climb something hard, but no matter what, you are getting stronger and better. Any climb is good climbing.”

With the sport of climbing on the rise, collegiate climbing teams and competitions are becoming a recognized norm within several universities. These events, covering disciplines like bouldering, lead climbing and speed climbing, offer students a chance to compete.

“Collegiate has been my own personal journey,” Mara Wallace, a 23-year-old climber, said. “I am not a part of a team; I represent myself at different competitions across the country with other college climbers.”

Mara Wallace has been dedicated to climbing ever since she started in middle school, eventually joining a gym in Louisville, Ky.

“Nine years ago I didn’t even know climbing existed,” Wallace said. “It’s made me into a whole different person, and I’ve surprised myself by doing things I never thought I’d be able to do.”

Wallace describes how climbing presents both highs and lows, but consistent practice and achieving personal climbing goals result in enhanced performance and greater confidence.

“If I had a hard day climbing, I always know I’ll go back and have a better day,” Wallace said.

Despite its challenges, climbing provides a deeply rewarding experience that attracts many, contributing to its rise as a prominent and rapidly growing sport in Kentucky.

“Climbing, there’s nothing like it,” Wallace said. “It is more than just a sport to me. Every time I get on the wall, it is like one giant puzzle to solve.”